#: locale=en ## Action ### URL LinkBehaviour_1E9E71D3_0465_C91F_4154_DC6633A1C1E4.source = https://gsmheritagecenter.org/ WebFrame_22F9EEFF_0C1A_2293_4165_411D4444EFEA.url = https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d14377.55330038866!2d-73.99492968084243!3d40.75084469078082!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x89c259a9f775f259%3A0x999668d0d7c3fd7d!2s400+5th+Ave%2C+New+York%2C+NY+10018!5e0!3m2!1ses!2sus!4v1467271743182 WebFrame_4779E509_5EBC_A483_4197_2388ACE0B1A4.url = https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m18!1m12!1m3!1d14377.55330038866!2d-73.99492968084243!3d40.75084469078082!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x89c259a9f775f259%3A0x999668d0d7c3fd7d!2s400+5th+Ave%2C+New+York%2C+NY+10018!5e0!3m2!1ses!2sus!4v1467271743182 ## Hotspot ### Tooltip HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_1A0B40FB_3A65_01DA_41C8_C1D240EDED50.toolTip = Back to previous graves HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_19593110_3C0B_6B74_41CC_27A498009B05.toolTip = Cable MIll Area Transcript HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_1B21F9DE_3C39_3AEC_41B7_DC3627417826.toolTip = Cable Mill Arrea HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_1BD4A306_3C39_2F5C_41B4_21AC1E815AA3.toolTip = Cantilever Barn HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_22C710F2_3C19_EAB4_41B5_B4EE319C33E7.toolTip = Click here to learn about log cabin home construction. 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transcription HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_380F1DC9_1800_2ACD_41B2_9360A56545DF.toolTip = More graves HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_03374A50_3BD5_D1A2_4198_BC89176EECA1.toolTip = Overall Map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_073282B1_3BCC_D6E2_41A4_25588558FC3A.toolTip = Overall Map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_04031D7F_3BF7_B25E_41A7_03A4C1AB6902.toolTip = Overall Map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_06057B72_3BF5_5666_41AE_C13A0997F486.toolTip = Overall Map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_1AFBC3FC_3BB7_5662_413F_C139B41E04F0.toolTip = Overall Map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_183E5E34_3BCD_71E2_4194_D5DE0F097125.toolTip = Overall Map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_187BDFE2_3A7C_FFEA_41C6_4C66697EC725.toolTip = Overall Map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_1A0578B4_3BB3_52E2_41B3_6C8B4531975D.toolTip = Overall Map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_183D3C0A_3A7F_003A_41B4_BA1FCB55B891.toolTip = Overall Map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_1CD78A94_3A6B_002E_41A5_945343706063.toolTip = Overall map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_1EA4383D_3A65_005E_41A5_08C216010259.toolTip = Overall map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_1A0E069E_3A65_005A_41A2_8079757A28FA.toolTip = Overall map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_1CA38100_3C19_2B54_41CA_0D7A15EC94B5.toolTip = Overlook area information HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_1D106DA3_3C1B_3B54_41B1_35B14AC4AB7D.toolTip = Overlook area transciption HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_2691369C_3A58_0E7A_4169_CC25A029C1B1.toolTip = Shape Note Singing HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_224AFB8C_0459_7A95_414E_CFDD71A18364.toolTip = To front of cabin HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_21846AB7_0429_7AF3_4161_4C2A1AF01FEE.toolTip = To Becky Cable's House HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_0CAF629A_3BD3_B6A6_41AF_6163ECF070AF.toolTip = To Inside of Becky Cable's house HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_22370C63_0439_DD93_4170_25247B2234E8.toolTip = To another room HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_230845C9_0427_2E9F_415C_AE9876B83F56.toolTip = To another room HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_2192D3D5_0439_6AB7_4181_68CD7E02432C.toolTip = To another room HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_21D384FD_043B_2E77_4189_F788BEEBF883.toolTip = To back of Becky Cable's House HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_21FBC97E_0459_2672_4170_6EDDB02FB3E1.toolTip = To back of cabin HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_237BBE8B_042E_FA93_413D_30C086F19CF0.toolTip = To corn crib HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_061BFC0B_3BF4_D1A6_41B1_5E8A738C486B.toolTip = To corn crib front HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_2273EC95_045F_3EB7_4150_048844635FF2.toolTip = To front of Becky Cable's house HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_22768365_0459_2B97_417B_275CF6131A70.toolTip = To front of cabin HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_3819E4B5_1800_1945_41B3_1BFC6F74F5A7.toolTip = To front of church HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_21EC91AE_0439_2695_4155_E2F1F60DA242.toolTip = To inside Becky Cable's house - main store HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_21A8A3D1_0427_2A8F_4172_0974972DB6D8.toolTip = To inside Becky Cable's house - main store HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_2210E778_0439_EA7D_4164_CE391C9A33F0.toolTip = To inside of Becky Cable's house HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_0DFCC45E_3BD7_725E_41C3_D5154802A49E.toolTip = To small cantilever barn HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_2343B10E_045F_2795_418A_3ED3C2049A36.toolTip = To small corn crib HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_21FB1437_045B_2DF3_4180_D7B83EC99DB4.toolTip = To the back of the cabin HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_2B109CF2_353C_2E33_41BD_AD08C393355E.toolTip = Transcript of audio founding of church HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_2447A572_3A6D_00EA_41BE_6FAE2F7C0936.toolTip = overall map HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_143890A6_37AD_CF05_41A2_DC4C3FAEF3FB.toolTip = to front of church HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_23124CD6_0459_DEB5_4189_A32831070539.toolTip = to inside of cabin HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_17364369_37A6_510F_41A4_8AF6CEC84CE4.toolTip = to more graves HotspotPanoramaOverlayArea_2314B1CD_0459_6697_416A_3FF8C3114BBB.toolTip = to the front of the cabin 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Bench Transcript
In front of the pulpit is a small bench, a feature commonly found in many churches. This bench served several purposes and might have been referred to as a “sin chair,” a “confession chair,” or a “forgiveness chair,” depending on the church. In some congregations, it was also used as a place of honor. Individuals seeking forgiveness could come forward, sit on the bench, and publicly confess their sins before the congregation and God. Although it was not a confessional in the traditional sense, it served a similar purpose. Even respected community leaders recognized that they, too, were capable of sinning and would come forward to seek forgiveness from their church.
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Bench Transcript
In the worship practices of this Primitive Baptist Church, as was often done in churches at that particular time, men and women sat on opposite sides. This practice continued until the park took over. If you were facing the pulpit, the men would sit on the right side and the women on the left. In some churches, it may have been different, but the point is that men sat on one side and women and children on the other.
When a young man reached the age of 12, although today we would still call him a boy, he was considered a man. It was time for him to start acting and thinking as a man. At that age, he would leave his mother's side and sit with his father on the opposite side of the church. His sister, however, would remain with their mother because the women sat on one side and the men and boys on the other.
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Cades Cove Primitive Baptist Church
Transcription
We must first get a little bit of the history before we even talk of this particular building.
In the early years, we mentioned John Oliver coming in in 1818. The Tiptons followed in 1819, as did a handful of others. And these folks who were living in Cades Cove, they would meet at the various homes, and they would have a Bible study. Someone who could read and read well, they would kind of lead this service.
John Oliver was very instrumental, as was another man by the name of Peter Cable.
After about five or six years of working in the homes of people, they said, “We need to belong to a church. We need to affiliate with the church.”
So sure enough, in 1826, they sent a letter to what was called Blair's Cove. Today, it's East Miller's Cove and West Miller's Cove because we have a road going right through Miller's Cove. And that was an established community about 20 miles from Cades Cove.
That was in 1826. No answer was received from the Baptist Church from Miller's Cove. So come 1827, they sent a letter again over into what was known as Wears Valley or Wears Cove, to a Baptist church there. They responded, “Yes, you can become a part of the Wears Cove church.”
So the first few years of the Baptist church that we're talking about, which is what it was, because it was a Baptist church, not the Primitive as of yet, but the Wears Cove Baptist Church in Cades Cove. That was the title of the church.
So a number of years went by calling it Wears Cove Baptist Church in Cades Cove, and that you can see on the church minutes.
Well, by 1831, a man by the name of Tipton, one of the Tipton families, he donated an acre and a half of land where the church now sits and the cemetery. And so that's where they built their first log cabin church.
Again, it's not the building that we have today. It was the log church. There is some speculation as to maybe there were two log churches. When the first one was little, they had to build a bigger one because more people moved into Cades Cove.
By 1850, there were 700 people living in Cades Cove. Many were Baptist, and they came to that little church, that log church.
It wasn't until 1887, when they had the sawmills brought into Cades Cove, which were called portable sawmills because they could transport those and they were steam-driven. That's when they erected this particular church in 1887.
There was a strong windstorm that came up, toppled many of the trees, particularly the pine trees, and that was an easy wood for them to saw.
This building, the interior is made out of pine or fir trees. The exterior was poplar, and that they shaped to be uniform boards.
On the inside of the church, the pine is just planks that were uniformly laid in a pattern. But if you look at them, one might be five inches. So you could feel those walls and feel the different boards. Some might be five inches, some might be seven inches, three inches, because they utilized everything. They didn't throw away anything.
When I say uniform, it means square, but it was not like the exterior where every board is the same size.
They did have the bell in the church. That's very important to the community and very important for many things, not just a call to worship.
Also, this church is set up on the stones, very large rocks, and that kind of served as a foundation.
But it's also, I mentioned this has always been a progressive community, and sure enough, come about the early 1920s, maybe late 1920s, they started jacking the churches up and putting cinder blocks underneath them.
When the park took over the churches throughout, especially the Primitive Baptist, which is a good example, the park decided, “We're going to show the visitor to the park what this church looked like when it was made in 1887.”
So they jacked that church back up, took the cinder blocks out, found some similar rocks, and that became then the look that we have today on the rocks.
Occasionally, the park has to come back in and redo some of these rocks as they settle into the ground to keep that floor very, very flat.
But back to the outside of the church. If you can look on the left side, there's a column indicating when the church was built, and it said it was founded in 1827. But it doesn't say this building was built in 1887. It says founded. That again goes back to when they got their charter as a Baptist church.
On the left side, it's honoring John Oliver. On the right side is a man named Peter Cable, who is another prominent citizen.
This church became the most prominent church, was the largest church. Some of the community leaders attended this church, so a lot of decisions were made as a congregation that affected the entire Cove.
Sometimes there were 250 people in the Cove. Other years, it had grown. Their census tells us that there were up to 700 people.
The John Oliver cabin that we had mentioned before, it's maybe one of the oldest cabins. Some of the other cabins are not as old as that. They were built in the 1880s, 1860s, and so forth.
But this is a wonderful, wonderful place.
And this church also, there was a split. And I don't want to go into too much about this split, but it had to do with the situation where, what is the purpose of our church? Are we to become missionaries? Are we to support mission work? Or are we just to exhibit a Christian life?
So there was a split, and that split came in 1839. So think of that date. That's when this Baptist church became a Primitive Baptist church.
Missionary Baptists then, who believed in missions and supporting them, they would actually use this same church but at different hours because they all believed in the same God and in Jesus dying and going to heaven. So they used the same church.
They were also a community that was open to even the Mormons coming in. Now, the Mormons that came in, they were allowed to live, and they could too worship at a different hour or a different time in that particular church.
So it was very open.
Now, it cannot be said what was the feeling of the people here in the mountains towards those of the Catholic faith. That's another thing for study to go into.
But they were open and allowed the Mormons. They would not have allowed a man to have more than one wife. That was not recognized, however.
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Cades Cove: Cable Mill, the Becky Cable House, and the Cantilever Barn
As we enter the restroom area, also known as the Cable Mill area, there are several things I want to point out to you.
The only building here that is original to its location is the mill itself. The mill was built by a man named John P. Cable, or John Primmer Cable. He and his family moved into Cades Cove from North Carolina.
Earlier, we talked about Peter Cable.
Peter was John Primmer Cable's uncle. John's father was Peter's brother, and there were two other brothers in the family as well. Four brothers were part of this family history, with some relatives settling in Cades Cove and others remaining in or moving into North Carolina.
So, we still have Cable descendants in North Carolina who are kinfolk, or cousins, but whose families were not necessarily residents of Cades Cove. John Primmer Cable came into the Cove because there was a need for another miller.
He constructed a large gristmill, which became one of the largest mills in Cades Cove. This particular mill is known as an overshot mill. That means the water flows over the top of the waterwheel, and the weight and movement of the water turn the wheel to provide power.
There are also mills known as undershot mills, where the water flows beneath the wheel and turns it from below.
But this one is an overshot mill.
The mill also had what was known as a sash saw, spelled S-A-S-H. This was a saw that cut on the downward stroke rather than the upward stroke.
It could cut very large logs, but the process took considerable time because the blade only cut during the downward movement.
The mill was also used to grind grain, primarily corn.
Corn was the principal crop grown in Cades Cove, although some farmers also grew wheat. Families brought their grain to the mill, where it was ground into meal or flour for cooking.
When John Primmer Cable passed away, the mill was passed down to his son, James Valentine Cable. What's particularly interesting is that, as the generations went by, women performed much of the work involved in operating the mill.
It has even been said that some of the men enjoyed their free time a little too much, leaving their wives to handle the hard work while they went off to socialize!
Now, you've probably heard someone say, "Quit milling around and come over here and help me!"
Oral History on Take your Turn and Milling Around
Well, there's an interesting story associated with that expression.
In the old days, people would bring their grain to the mill to have it ground.
Sometimes a young person would take the grain, and other times it might be an older family member, particularly if no one else was available. They would bring corn to be ground into cornmeal, which could then be used for cornbread and other foods that were part of the family's daily meals.
Now, let's imagine a young man who has been attending school or church and has become interested in a young lady.
Today, we'd say they were dating, but back then, we might have called it courting.
During the summer, he might not have many opportunities to see her.
So, he might say, "Why don't you go down to the mill tomorrow morning, and I'll meet you there around eight o'clock?"
The young lady agrees. The next morning, they each tell their mothers, "I'll take the grain down to the mill."
And off they go!
At the mill, there was a waiting shed where people could sit until it was their turn to have their grain ground.
During the winter months, the shed might have a little potbelly stove to keep everyone warm while they waited.
The millstones could only grind so much grain at once, so everyone had to wait for their turn. And that's another expression we sometimes associate with the old mills: "Take your turn."
Now, imagine that the young lady arrives first. When her turn comes, she might say to someone else, "Oh, you go ahead and take your turn."
Meanwhile, she's sitting there talking with that young man. And they talk, and talk, and talk! But back at home, Mother is waiting for that cornmeal because she needs to prepare breakfast or lunch for the family. Father and the other workers are expecting something to eat, and the day's work must continue.
Finally, around nine-thirty, the young couple finishes talking, collects the grain, and heads home. When the young man arrives, his mother or father might say, "Son, were you down there milling around again, talking to that girl?"
So, according to this traditional story, that's where the expression "milling around" came from.
People would gather at the mill, wait for their grain, socialize, and sometimes spend a little more time there than their families expected!
Whether or not these expressions actually originated at gristmills, the stories give us a wonderful picture of how mills served as gathering places within rural communities.
Now, another important building here is the Becky Cable House.
Becky Cable, whose full name was Rebecca Cable, was a daughter of John Primmer Cable.
There's a story that Becky had a boyfriend, or suitor, who lived in North Carolina.
When her family moved into Cades Cove, she was a young woman, and it was believed that this gentleman intended to marry her.
However, as the story goes, he never followed Becky into Cades Cove, and she never married. Becky had a younger brother named Daniel.
Daniel experienced mental health difficulties and was eventually placed in an asylum. His wife suffered from tuberculosis and ultimately passed away.This left Becky to help care for Daniel's children.
The house where Becky lived was one she had purchased from a man named Leason Gregg.It is believed that Gregg had the house constructed around 1879. Some accounts suggest that it may have been the first frame-built, or stick-built, house in Cades Cove.
Now, that's an interesting possibility.
We have some of the oldest log cabins in Cades Cove, and we may also have one of the earliest frame-built homes in the area.
Of course, these claims are still open to historical discussion and debate.
The Becky Cable House is also part of a larger collection of historic buildings that the National Park Service brought together to create the setting we see today.
The Park Service arranged these buildings to help visitors understand the different structures and activities that were part of everyday life in Cades Cove.
One of those structures is the cantilever barn. If we have an opportunity to go inside, you'll notice that its construction is quite different from that of a conventional barn.
A cantilever barn has a framework of log cribs supporting large horizontal logs that extend outward beyond the supporting structure.
These projecting logs help support the upper portion of the barn.
From the outside, the barn may resemble a more conventional agricultural building because walls have been constructed around portions of the framework.
But when you look inside, you can see the cribbing and the cantilevered construction that make this type of barn so distinctive.
This particular barn was moved here from another location in Cades Cove. It was known as the LeQuire Barn.
The Becky Cable House was also moved to this area, I believe sometime during the 1950s. Becky Cable died in 1940.
From everything I've heard about her, she was a lovely woman whose heart was bigger than she was.
I've spoken with or heard accounts from descendants, and I have never heard anyone say anything negative about Becky. She seems to have been remembered as a kind, generous, and caring woman who devoted much of her life to helping her family.
And that's one of the wonderful things about the history of Cades Cove.
These buildings aren't simply examples of old construction techniques. They represent the lives of the people who worked here, raised their families, helped their neighbors, and created a community.
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Cades Cove: Early Log Homes and Frontier Construction
When European immigrants came into an area, one of the first things they had to do was girdle the trees. In other words, they would strip the bark from around the base of a tree. The bark was essential to the life of that tree, so when the man and woman worked together to strip it away, the tree would eventually die.
They would do this to a number of trees. As the trees died, their leaves would wither, allowing sunlight to reach the ground. The settlers could then begin hoeing the soil and establishing their farms between the dead trees.
As the years went by, they would begin cutting down those trees with axes. If they had a saw, that was wonderful, but usually they relied on an axe. The fallen trees could then provide the timber needed to construct their log homes.
To prepare the logs, they had to shape them into squares. They might use a string to mark a straight line, much like the chalk lines used in construction today. If they didn't have a string, they would simply judge the line by sight.
Then they would take a broad axe, which had a curved handle, and begin striking the sides of the log to square it off. This required considerable time, strength, and skill.
Because the tree had already died, the wood had begun to dry and was less likely to warp. Once the log was properly shaped, it could be positioned as part of the home's construction. That's how these early log homes were built.
These were small homes, nothing like the large houses we think of today. The size was limited partly by the need to handle and position the heavy logs. Generally, a log home might measure about 16 by 16 feet, which was quite small for an entire family.
Some homes had a loft above the main living area, reached by a ladder. The children would climb up there to sleep, generally the boys, although that wasn't always the case. Every family was different, depending on its size and circumstances. Often, the girls remained downstairs with their mother and father while the boys slept in the loft.
Once the logs were in place, the spaces between them had to be filled. This involved a process known as chinking and daubing.
Chinking originally referred to the small pieces of scrap wood, branches, or sticks wedged between the logs. Mud was then applied over those materials to seal the openings. That process was called daubing.
Today, when we think of chinking, we often think only of the material filling the gaps between the logs. But traditionally, the chinking was the wood wedged into those spaces, while the mud was the daubing.
Now, here's something interesting about those log homes.
When it rained, some of that mud would wash away. The higher openings were particularly difficult to reach and repair. As a result, children sleeping in the loft might actually have snow blowing in on them during the winter.
So, when you hear those old family stories about great-great-grandpa growing up with snow falling onto his bed, there's a reason for that!
That's also why those families depended on heavy quilts and comforters to keep warm at night. You may have heard old songs referring to those good old comforters. Well, that tradition goes back to the days when families needed those heavy coverings to survive the cold.
There's another misconception about log homes that I'd like to address.
We often hear romantic stories about our great-grandparents living on the frontier and how much great-great-grandmother loved her log home.
Well, she probably didn't love the log home itself!
She may have come from the East Coast, where she was familiar with clapboard houses and buildings constructed with sawed lumber. But out here in the wilderness, those materials weren't readily available. They didn't have portable sawmills to produce the lumber needed for more conventional houses.
Once portable sawmills became available, settlers could begin constructing clapboard homes and other types of frame buildings.
The log home was simply a home. Some people called it a cabin, and others called it a house. Either way, it was where the family lived.
The reason great-grandmother loved that place wasn't necessarily because she loved the building. It was because that was where she raised her children, cared for her family, prepared their meals, and built a life.
It certainly wasn't because she enjoyed spending every year repairing the mud between the logs, often with the children helping her!
And remember, those homes had very few windows. The interiors were dark and gloomy, making it difficult to accomplish many daily tasks indoors.
That's why so much work took place outside, particularly on the porches.
When you visit a log cabin, look closely at the logs along the porch. See if you can find a bored hole or an auger hole in the wood.
Those holes often held wooden pegs used to hang chairs, looms, spinning wheels, and other household items. Families needed to bring their work outside because there simply wasn't enough light indoors.
Another feature you'll notice is that most of the doorways were quite short. You often have to duck your head to walk through them.
Now, part of that was because people were generally shorter than they are today. But there was another practical reason.
If you wanted a taller doorway or a larger entrance, you would have to add another course of logs above it. That meant more work, more materials, and more effort to construct the home. So, those short doorways were also a matter of practicality.
That gives you some insight into what life was like in these early log homes.
Now, when you look at the corners of a log home, pay particular attention to how the logs fit together.
You don't necessarily have to touch them. Just look closely at the craftsmanship.
It's amazing to see the different ways those corners were constructed. There were several types of notches, including the steeple notch and the dovetail notch.
The more skilled the craftsman, the better the corner joints would fit together. These carefully shaped notches allowed the logs to lock into place, providing strength and stability to the structure.
Because of that craftsmanship, the builders didn't necessarily need nails or spikes like we use today. They also didn't need large wooden dowels running through the logs to hold everything together.
The way those corners were cut and fitted helped secure the entire structure.
And that gives you a better understanding of what went into building a log home and how the early settlers (European migrants) made use of the materials available to them.
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Cades Cove: The John Oliver Cabin and the Early Immigrants
Hello, and welcome! As we're coming into Cades Cove, there are a couple of things I want you to understand.
First, Cades Cove was a mountain farming community. It was a community that began in 1818 and continued until the establishment of the National Park in 1934. It was a large community, and these people were very progressive. When I say progressive, I'm not using the term in its current political sense. They were progressive in that they believed in education and, as the years went on, scientific farming.
These are things I want you to know about Cades Cove. The Cove has been preserved largely in its 1870 appearance, except for the churches, which take us into the 1900s. The log cabins were constructed mostly of poplar and chestnut. Some were made of oak, but not as many because oak was a harder wood to work with.
The first cabin we come to is the John Oliver Cabin. John Oliver was from Carter County, in northeastern Tennessee, near where North Carolina, Virginia, and Tennessee come together. Carter County was a much larger county then than it is today.
In 1818, John Oliver brought his wife into the mountains, coming into what is now Blount County. John Oliver was a veteran of the War of 1812 and a hero of the Battle of Horseshoe Bend.
But the story of John Oliver also encompasses his wife, and I like to think of this as the lady's story. When they came into the Cove, they brought their belongings with them. Of course, they didn't have moving vans, so they brought whatever they could carry. They may also have had a beast of burden to help transport some of their possessions.
Mrs. Oliver already had a one-year-old child with her, and I couldn't imagine the hardships they endured. There were no cabins then, only lean-to shelters left by traders who had come into the area to trade with Native Americans in what the Cherokee referred to as the Place of the Otter.
These traders had constructed simple shelters to keep out the bad weather, and that was where the Olivers had to live for several years until they could build their cabin.
Mrs. Oliver had been a bonded servant.
There was a difference between an indentured servant and a bonded servant. Indentured servants came from Europe and agreed to work for the person who paid their passage to the colonies or the Americas. They would work for that person for a specified number of years.
A bonded servant, on the other hand, might have been an orphaned child, a child whose parents could not control them, or a child from a family experiencing hardship and unable to provide for everyone. The child would be contracted out to work for a number of years.
We don't know a great deal about Lucretia Frazier Oliver, but we do know that she had been a bonded servant. John Oliver's family, meanwhile, can be traced back to England.
Now we move forward to 1818, following the War of 1812. The Olivers came into this new territory, and it was a difficult time for them.
They lived in these primitive shelters, and Mrs. Oliver not only had a one-year-old child with her, but she was also pregnant with their second child. I couldn't imagine what it must have been like for her, her husband, and their young child, especially when she gave birth to another baby under those circumstances.
But they endured.The following year, a land speculator came into the area. Mrs. Oliver told her husband, "I want to go home to Carter County."
The response was, "Oh, you can't go home." I find it ironic that this woman could endure giving birth to a child beneath a tree in the wilderness, yet a man would tell her she couldn't leave. Well, she could do whatever she wanted! But she negotiated.
She said, "You bring me a milk cow, a cow that's producing milk, and I can make a go of it."
And sure enough, they brought her a cow.
Some members of the Oliver family say there were actually two cows. Either way, it was the milk cow that made the difference. It provided milk, cream, and butter, and she made a go of it.
All the while, John Oliver was constructing their log cabin.
Building a log cabin took a number of years. First, you had to cut the trees, hew the logs, and shape the corners. Then you had to bring the logs to the building site. A beast of burden could help pull the logs up over a sapling framework, which served as a kind of brace, allowing the logs to be lifted and set into place.
It was a long and labor-intensive process.
One Oliver descendant actually traced the logs and had a scientific study conducted. The findings suggested that the logs dated to approximately 1822 or 1823.
That descendant was Colonel Hugh Oliver, a World War II pilot and a great-great-grandson of John Oliver. As we move forward in the family's history, part of the Oliver family continued living in that cabin, with descendants occupying it until the establishment of the National Park.
The Olivers are considered one of the first families of Cades Cove. However, they arrived before the Treaty of 1819, which means that, technically, they were settling on Cherokee land without legal authorization.
The beautiful thing about the Cherokee is that they helped provide food for the Olivers, allowing them to survive that first year after arriving in what became known as Cades Cove.
Now, you may wonder where Cades Cove got its name. There are a number of stories, but the one I feel is most accurate involves the traders I mentioned earlier.
There was a man named Peter Snider, whose last name is generally spelled S-N-I-D-E-R. He was of Germanic background and worked as a trader in the area.
Peter Snider met with a Cherokee leader whom he referred to as Chief Cade. I'm sure that was probably an Anglicized or Germanic interpretation of the chief's name, but Snider referred to him as Chief Cade in his ledgers. I believe that's where the name Cades Cove originated.
There are other stories about the name, and you may read or hear different explanations. Someone may tell you another version, and that's fine. But in my opinion, the name came from Chief Cade.
Much of what we know about the families who lived in Cades Cove comes from oral history.
One family might write something down, while another descendant would record something different because they remembered their grandparents telling the story another way. We all hear and remember things differently.
Today, we have written histories, but much of that written history evolved from the oral traditions passed down through generations.
John Oliver died shortly before the Civil War, but his wife lived for a number of years afterward. They had a large family. Some of their children and descendants remained in the Cove, while others moved away. As a result, Oliver descendants are spread throughout the country.
Among those who stayed, one family member who comes to mind is Elijah Oliver. We have another cabin here in the park called the Elijah Oliver Cabin. That cabin had previously been occupied by another family, but Elijah Oliver, a son of John Oliver, eventually acquired the property.
Elijah married a young woman from Tuckaleechee Cove, which is now the Townsend area. After the Civil War, he returned and purchased the land, and that's why we call it the Elijah Oliver Cabin today.
Elijah Oliver also had a son named William Howell Oliver. William Howell Oliver was very involved with the Primitive Baptist Church. So, the connection between John Oliver's family and the Primitive Baptist Church is not simply a matter of bloodline. It is also connected to the establishment of the church itself and the early efforts to organize a congregation in Cades Cove.
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Cantilever Barn at Cable Mill
Behind Becky Cable's House.
Cantilever Barns have an overhang supported by log cribs. They were thought to have originated through the influences of European migrants who brought their traditions of barn building with them.
Blount and Sevier Counties have the most cantilever barns in the world. (Cades Cove was in Blount County before the area became a National Park.)
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Ceiling Transcript
Now, if you look at the ceiling, some of you may be able to see what appear to be fingerprints, palm prints, smudges, and smears left behind by the people who helped construct this church. A gentleman who once lived in Cades Cove, whose first name was Leon and who has since passed away, told me that his great-grandmother had helped build this church. According to Leon, his great-grandmother recalled that during the winter months, workers would rub bear grease on their hands to help keep them warm. That grease may have left some of the marks still visible on the ceiling today. Whether bear grease was responsible or not, anyone who works with wood knows that the natural oils and perspiration from our hands can leave stains. A skilled cabinetmaker or wood finisher would ordinarily sand away such marks, but here they remain as part of the church’s living history.
When this church was completed in 1887, those handprints became a lasting connection to the people who built it. I remember hearing one of the elders recall that, when she was a little girl, her parents taught her to honor the church because her grandfather had helped build it, or her grandmother had stood holding the ceiling boards in place while others nailed them into position. Those marks represent the hands and labor of the people who built this church, and that is one of the unique features that makes this building so special.
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John Cable Grist Mill
Built by John Premer Cable 1867-1870
Served as a water-powered gristmill for grinding corn and wheat into flour/meal, as well as an adjacent sawmill used to cut lumber for local homesteads (including the nearby 1879 Gregg-Cable House)
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Shape Note Singing Transcript
The acoustics in this particular church are remarkable because the building is constructed entirely of wood. Sound carries beautifully, ringing and resonating throughout the sanctuary. The church leaders, who were not referred to as preachers, pastors, or ministers but rather as “elders,” would speak to the congregation in this setting. Even today, visitors occasionally bring musical instruments into the church to experience its wonderful acoustics.
However, when this was an active Primitive Baptist Church, musical instruments were not permitted during worship. Primitive Baptists believed that if a practice was not supported by Scripture, it should not be incorporated into their worship services. Of course, if someone could prove that an instrument was Gabriel’s horn, perhaps they would have made an exception! Although instrumental music was not part of their worship, singing certainly was.
Their singing followed a tradition known today as shape-note singing. In this tradition, singers would first sing the musical notes using syllables such as do, re, mi, and fa before singing the words of the hymn. The system commonly used four distinct note shapes and corresponding syllables. The congregation sang in four vocal parts: bass, tenor, soprano, and alto. Each part would sing the notes first, followed by the words or verses of the hymn. This distinctive style of singing was an important part of the church’s worship tradition.
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Thunderhead Mountain
5,527 feet
One of Thunderhead's three peaks has a rocky top with an elevation of 5,440 feet and is commonly known to have inspired the song Rocky Top which became a University of Tennessee fight song and an official Tennessee state song.
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ades Cove: Hearths, Cooking, and the Evolution of Log Homes
The Oliver Cabin had a hearth, which was used for heating and cooking. As the years went by and families changed through the generations, they might add an outdoor cooking area for use during the summer months. After all, they didn't want to heat up a cabin that was already warm. Instead, they would prepare meals outdoors in a sheltered area.
You might also come across a larger log cabin with what was known as a double hearth. This meant that one room had a fireplace to provide heat, while the adjoining room had another fireplace on the opposite side. Both fireplaces shared the same chimney.
Of course, heat rises, so the loft above would often be warmer than the living area below. Eventually, families began installing wood-burning cookstoves. These stoves could be vented into the existing chimney through an opening above the fireplace.
When you visit a log cabin today, you may notice a fireplace with a hole above it that has been sealed with cement. That opening may have once accommodated the stovepipe from a wood-burning stove.
Many historic cabins no longer contain these stoves, but they were an important improvement in everyday life. The stoves had flat cooking surfaces with removable circular plates, often called eyes, where families could place their pots, pans, and kettles to prepare meals.
It's interesting to see how these homes evolved as the needs of the families changed over the generations.
The Oliver Cabin is a good example.
The cabin continued to be occupied well into the twentieth century. I believe the last family members lived there until around 1946. During those years, improvements and additions were made to the original structure.
For example, lean-to additions were constructed, and porch areas were sometimes enclosed to create additional living space. This was a common practice among families who needed more room as their households grew.
They might also construct a staircase using sawed lumber to provide access to the loft. Instead of climbing a pegged ladder or a simple wooden ladder, family members could use a more conventional staircase.
Of course, adding a staircase took up valuable floor space in an already small home. But families found ways to make use of every available area. Underneath those staircases, they often stored kindling and firewood. This allowed them to keep a supply of fuel indoors without having to venture outside into the cold or bad weather.
These changes illustrate how log homes were adapted over the years. What began as a simple structure gradually evolved to accommodate growing families, changing technologies, and the practical needs of everyday life.
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ades Cove: The Wildlife Overlook and Surrounding Mountains
Here at the overlook, we're standing on a slightly elevated hill, looking out across Cades Cove. As we look toward the east and southeast, we can see the tall mountain ranges in the distance.
This overlook was once called the Myers Overlook because many members of the Myers family lived in this area. It's interesting that it was named for the Myers family because other families, including the Gregorys, also lived nearby. Russell Gregory, for example, lived in this vicinity.
During the 1990s, the National Park Service introduced red wolves into the park. Unfortunately, the introduction was not successful, and the wolves eventually disappeared from the area. Disease, including parvovirus, was among the problems affecting the wolves.
During that period, the overlook became known as the Wildlife Overlook. So, it went from the Myers Overlook to the Wildlife Overlook. Today, with the wolves gone, we often simply refer to it as the overlook.
But it's a beautiful place to stop and enjoy the scenery.
Looking toward the mountains, you'll notice the lower ridges in the foreground, rising approximately 3,000 to 3,500 feet. Behind those ridges are the taller mountains.
One of the most recognizable mountains in the distance has three distinct humps. That's Thunderhead Mountain.
Thunderhead Mountain is one of the tallest peaks in the western portion of the park, reaching approximately 5,600 feet in elevation. Its name is associated with the weather patterns around its summit. Clouds often gather over the mountain, producing rain showers even when the surrounding mountains remain dry.
If you look toward the left, you'll see those three humps that identify Thunderhead Mountain.
People in Tennessee particularly appreciate this mountain because nearby are two rocky outcroppings known as Rocky Top. Many of us associate those rocky summits with the famous Tennessee song, "Rocky Top."Interestingly, the Rocky Top summits are located on the Tennessee–North Carolina state boundary.
As we continue looking across the mountain range from left to right, we move from Thunderhead Mountain and Rocky Top toward Spence Field.
Spence Field is a beautiful open area along the mountain ridge and a popular place for hikers and backpackers. Historically, it was also used for grazing livestock.
During the summer months, farmers would take their animals up into these higher elevations to graze. This allowed them to use the fertile land down in the Cove for growing crops.
Once the crops had been harvested, the farmers would bring their livestock back down from the mountains. The animals could then forage in the fields and feed on the remaining vegetation and crop fodder.
Continuing along the ridge from Spence Field, we come to Russell Field.
As we keep moving from left to right, we can see Mollies Ridge, with its series of rises and dips along the mountain landscape. One of the lower passages through this area is Ekaneetlee Gap.
Farther to the right is Gregory Bald.
Now, the term bald refers to those open, grassy areas found along some of the higher mountain summits.
There are several explanations for how these mountain balds developed. One traditional interpretation involves Native American land management and the effects of natural fires.
It is believed that lightning strikes sometimes caused fires along the higher elevations. After those fires burned out, grasses, plants, and berries would begin to grow in the cleared areas.
These new growth areas attracted wildlife, and the cooler temperatures at higher elevations made them favorable places for animals to gather. Native Americans could then hunt in these open areas.
Some interpretations also suggest that Native Americans maintained certain balds through controlled burning, helping preserve the open landscape and encouraging the growth of vegetation that attracted game. When European settlers arrived, they recognized the usefulness of these grassy mountaintops.
They saw the balds as excellent places to graze livestock, particularly during the warmer months when the lower fields were needed for agriculture.The settlers continued using these areas for grazing, helping maintain the open mountain landscapes.
So, one explanation for the development and preservation of these balds involves a combination of natural fires, Native American land management, and the grazing practices of European settlers.
Now, as we look back across the mountain range, remember that Thunderhead Mountain is approximately 5,600 feet high.
Another interesting feature of this ridge is that the Appalachian Trail follows portions of its crest.
The Appalachian Trail stretches from Georgia to Maine, and here in the Great Smoky Mountains, it travels along the high mountain ridges.
It's a wonderful sight from up there because you can look down into Cades Cove and see the valley spread out below.
That mountain ridge also forms part of the boundary between Tennessee and North Carolina.
So, technically, we're quite close to North Carolina. As the crow flies, it's only about four miles away. But if you wanted to hike there through the mountains, you'd better plan on a good day's journey!
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